I pull my North Face jacket tighter. It’s waterproof, but the wind from the bay still bites. As I open the heavy door of the cafe, a particularly strong gust almost shuts it again. My partner and I barely squeeze through when the wind gusts again, slamming the door behind us. Thankfully, we’re greeted with warmth. The cafe has a charming farmhouse theme, with simple wooden tables and countertops. A woman with kind eyes greets us in Icelandic, then gestures to the empty room.
We settle at a table near the window. Outside, there’s Laugavegur, one of the main streets in downtown Reykjavik. I people-watch, trying to guess who is local and who is a tourist. Bulky hiking boots and a parka, usually North Face brand, like mine, is the first clue of an out-of-towner.
Choosing this cafe was random, a desire to get online and out of the cold. However, Old Island, as it’s called, is a great opportunity for some local cuisine, as it specializes in local Icelandic cuisine, including seafood dishes. Still chilly from the walk over, I select a bowl of fish soup (Rjómalöguð skelfisksúpa).
As the only patrons, it isn’t long before our food arrives at the table. My soup steams. With a pinkish-orange color with golden rings of oil, the soup is the perfect flavor. Light yet filling, the broth is perfectly salted, with large, generous chunks of whitefish. I savor every bite, feeling tremendous gratitude for stumbling upon the inviting cafe, which feels more like someone’s dining room than a restaurant.
Two years later, I returned to the restaurant. This time, I’m alone. The interior is different, with more sophisticated furniture and a modern-looking bar. Waiters wearing sleek Nordic wear wait on tables, and the kind woman behind the counter is gone. Almost every table is occupied. But to my relief, the soup is still on the menu.
After seeing the changes at the cafe, I feared there would be something different in the soup. A different spice or fish would make it taste a little different but not as good. I’m pleased to find that it is just as delicious as I remember, if not more so. I flag down the waiter and even ask where the bowl, a charcoal grey color, came from. He disappears for a few minutes and returns with the name of a local potter. I put it in my pocket and continued to eat.
Discovering Icelandic Delicacies
I’ve visited Iceland a few times, and aside from the salty orange soup, I’ve covered most of the food specialties. There was the fermented shark and Brennivín liquor after a long day of hitchhiking to a friend’s home in Northern Iceland. There was the fresh salmon directly from a local fisherman’s fridge. And, of course, there was the sushi at the Dalvik fish festival, called the Great Fish Day.
Seamlessly weaving two cultures together, Icelandic sushi is actually delicious. In my case, however, there was a catch. After eating what I believed was the best tuna sashimi I had ever had, I was told by a local that it was whale. As my first food taboo, the experience made me think differently about what I choose to consume and what I won’t — easy to assume that my first time trying whale will be my last.
The soup is still my favorite. As a Ukrainian, my love for hearty soup is in my DNA. I devour everything from matzo ball to French onion, so it’s no surprise that when I think about Iceland and food, I still ache for that creamy fish soup.
The History of Soup in Iceland
Soup has been an essential part of the Icelandic diet since the Vikings chanted “Skol!”. Hot, hearty, and usually packed with nutrients, soup is an accessible, affordable, and versatile dish for Icelanders. While the fish soup is my personal favorite, a few other types of Icelandic soups include langoustine (humarsúpa) soup, as well as the national dish of Iceland, Kjötsúpa (or Icelandic lamb soup).
Soups tend to include meat such as lamb or various types of seafood due to Iceland’s expansive fishing industry. Although Iceland has a rough terrain, it is known for its rich volcanic soil, providing crops such as potatoes, cabbage, and carrots that find their way into local stockpots. Indoor greenhouse farming initiatives have also made it possible for different types of vegetables to be successfully grown.
The Hillingdon borough also offers a selection of nutrient-rich seasonal soups. From pea soup to leek and potato to chicken, Hillingdon residents savor the same hearty dishes as their Northern neighbors. Our local seafood enthusiasts will be delighted to know that while it’s not a local specialty, the creamy Icelandic fish soup is easy to replicate. With chunks of whitefish, white wine, and dill oil, Hillingdon locals can recreate the dish, even adding local ingredients such as curry powder and potatoes.
Have you ever tried this kind of Icelandic soup or something similar? Share your stories in the comments below!
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